How to Decide What Materials and Methods to Use in Making Your Armour

There are many different reasons for making maile. Some make maile simply as a hobby. Others make it for use in re-enactments. Some wish to replicate period maile as closely as possible, and still others make it for show and for costumes. All of these possibilities will be considered here in an attempt to help you figure out how to make maile armour to suit your needs and wants.

There are three main factors to consider here:
• Materials
• Rings
• Ring pattern
  

  
  

  
  

  Materials
  I am certainly no expert on materials, but I should be able to help you out a bit. For hobbyists and those wanting costume maile, it really doesn't matter what type of metal your rings are made out of, just as long as the metal is strong enough to stay together when subjected to the stresses of normal use. If a metal is used that is too weak, your maile could literally pull itself apart under its own weight. Smaller ring sizes reduce this risk, but increase production time (this will be discussed more in a later section). ALUMINUM IS NOT APPROPRIATE FOR REENACTMENT USES. It is far too weak no matter what reasonable size rings and diameter of wire.
  

  Aluminum produces very light maile, but it is not very strong. Aluminum will not rust or corrode. It also sounds different than other mailes. It does not "chink" as authentic mail would, instead it "tinkles". USE: for hobbyists and for costumes
  

  Titanium produces very light maile as well, and it is exceptionally strong. Titanium will not rust or corrode. One of the main disadvantages to titanium is cost. Titanium is considerably more expensive than other metals. Another disadvantage of titanium is that it work hardens rather easily. What this means that if a piece of titanium wire is worked often enough, it will snap (like bending a paper clip repeatedly until it breaks). USE: It's light weight and high strength make titanium a strong choice for reenactments, if the wearer doesn't seek authenticity. Also for hobbyists and for costumes.
  

  Galvanized steel is another option for those who aren't concerned with authenticity. I really have no experience with galvanized steel wire, but I believe it should allow for larger rings or smaller guage wire while still retaining a maile that is sufficiently strong to withstand its own stresses. The only disadvantage I can think of about galvanized steel is that there is a coating on it that slows the healing process. So if you cut yourself on the wire, the wound will take longer to heal. I have never severely cut myself making maile, but I have had many scratches and minor cuts, so this may become in important factor with galvanized wire. USE: for all but those seeking authenticity
  

  Iron and steel are about as close as we moderns are going to be able to come to authentic materials without making wire from scratch. One of these will be the best options for those seeking authenticity. Of these two, steel is probably not as historically accurate. In my experience, it is much easier to find though. USE: Iron and steel can serve anyone's purpose.
  

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  Ring Size
  

  Although technically there are an infinite number of possible ring sizes within a certain (rather small) range, there are only a few that concern us here. These are the sizes you are likely to find dowels in for wrapping your wire around. These sizes are 6 mm, (1/4 inches), 8 mm (5/16 inches), and 10 mm (3/8 inches). (These are all inside dimensions by the way.) Despite the seemingly insignificant difference between these ring sizes, there is a large difference when the maile is taken as a whole. Making a piece of maile with 8 mm. (5/16 inch) rings takes a noticeably longer time to complete than a piece of maile with 10 mm (3/8 inch) rings. The 10 mm (3/8 inch) size is not authentic, the other two are. I have compared the penetration distance of a knife stab with maile made from 10 mm. rings versus maile made with 8 mm. rings and there is a noticeable difference. A knife penetrates farther through the maile made from 10 mm rings. Maile made from 10 mm. rings is also more susceptible to being pried apart by a thrusted blade.
  

  There are other decisions that go along with ring size, such as methods to strengthen rings. Most period maile was either riveted, welded, heat-treated, or worked with some combination of the three. Period maile required riveting or welding because the metal technology was not as good as it is today. Although I have no experience with either riveting or welding, I do know that both are time consuming processes. Each and every link has to be riveted or welded to be effective. I have been told that welding takes less time than riveting. As I am sure you have guessed, I don't rivet or weld my maile.
  

  Heat treating, however, I highly recommend. It is a simple and easy way to increase the strength of your maile. Because after all, who wants the hauberk they just spent 75 (OR MORE) hours making to get damaged because of some unforeseen mishap? And if you expect to be taking blows in a reenactment, heat treating is almost a requirement. Heat treating is simply a process of heating the metal, then quenching it in a liquid. The rapid cooling hardens the metal. I would recommend using a very light oil (just about any kind of light oil will work) to quench your maile. This will serve the dual purpose of supercooling your maile and protecting it from rust. But whatever you choose to use to quench your maile, make sure it is at ROOM TEMPERATURE. Do not use a cold liquid, as a temperature difference that is too large can cause your rings to shatter, not a pleasant occurrence after so much work.
  

  I would also recommend contacting the company that makes the wire you use and ask them how best to heat treat your maile. They should be able to give you specifics on optimal temperatures and such. They may even be willing to give you the chemical composition of the wire if you are interested in knowing how close your wire is to being authentic.
  

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  Ring Pattern
  

  There are two basic ring patterns, 4 on 1, and 6 on 1. With the 4 on 1 pattern, each ring has four rings attached to it. With the 6 on 1 pattern, each ring has, you guessed it, six rings attached to it. I deal exclusively with the 4 on 1 pattern because it is easier and less time consuming. It is also slightly more appropriate for my purposes. The 6 on 1 pattern was a later development than the 4 on 1 pattern as a result of stronger longbows and crossbows. The 6 on 1 weave is tighter and stronger, so it is less susceptible to penetration by arrows or bolts. It is also heavier than 4 on 1. Most (if not all) authentic maile that I have seen has been of the 4 on 1 variety, but both are equally authentic. If you are using your maile along with a character you have developed, ring pattern is somewhat important. The earlier your character dates, the more likely that character would have used 4 on 1 maile.
  

  If you are interested in what I do, I use 16 gauge tie wire (steel wire) with either 8 mm (5/16 inch) rings or 10 mm (3/8 inch) rings. I use 10 mm. rings when making maile for others who want maile for costumes or for show. With my own maile, I use 8 mm. rings. I always use the 4 on 1 pattern.
  

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